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China

At the End of the Road

 

Getting to Xiahe from Yantai, China where I was living at the time required a train ride of about thirty hours followed by two six hour bus rides through the mountainous landscape of the Gansu province. It is the remoteness of the town that makes the trip all the more worth the effort. At the time that I visited Xiahe in 2000, only hardy backpackers were making the trip.

Xiahe is located high on the Tibetan plateau and is inhabited by mostly minority groups. Xiahe is one of the six most important religious centers of Tibetan Lamaism's Yellow Hat sect and the sprawling Labrang Monastery is amazing. Old men and women in felt hats rub shoulders with monks in red robes throughout the small town. There is also a large Muslim population, making the town a real crossroads of cultures.

Xiahe is also a gateway to the Sangke Grasslands, a vast area of mountains and grasslands inhabited by farmers and yak herders. I rented a bicycle and rode the 14 km to the grasslands where I came across this lake. After having lived on the industrialized coast of China, it was amazing to see a blue sky instead of the polluted gray that I was used to seeing. The mountains and colors made for a surreal sight.
  

 

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